Tag Archives: Ice cream

Ice Cream: Hacked, Debated, Hacked

It’s worth mentioning this nicely written piece from Serious Eats about how to make the “best” Ice cream with out an ice cream maker. I have delved into this contentious area of culinary science on this blog with my piece, “Ice Cream: The McGyver Way” and though I believe my method is perfect for producing fruit flavoured ice creams, in order to make a great vanilla ice cream – like you’d get from Doddingtons or “Cool As” from Over Langshaw, both down here in the Borders – you have to go into a little more detail.

Anyway, please check out the piece here:

The Food Lab: Real Ice Cream Without an Ice Cream Machine

The debate that ensues in the comments section is an eye opener in itself.

Other Ice Cream News:

The Icecreamists have taken over a section of Selfridges flagship store in London. This particular brand of ice creamery is a cheeky blend of punk aesthetics and risque “Carry On” style British humour. I’m not entirely convinced by it all. as the Sex Pistols said… “Never mind the Bollocks”.

It seems to have annoyed the SexPistols enough for them to issue a writ for plagerism. Honestly, what a lot of Pavlova… I mean palaver.

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David Lebovitz, Caramelised White Chocolate: Cheated

I’ve dipped into the politics of chocolate before on this blog but I fear today I am going to utter something so heinous and contentious that I will be deemed a pariah. If you’ve been following David Lebovitz’ excellent blog you’ll know he’s been creating a bit of stir with his caramelised white chocolate recipe with one notable and delicious spin being featured recently, the Caramelised White Chocolate Cake as concocted by Laura Adrian of The Hidden Kitchen. Round about now chocolate purists and foodies are going to want to turn away… this recipe and all caramelised white chocolate recipes are unnecessarily complicated and valuable moments in life are being wasted – STOP THIS MADNESS! All you need to achieve that caramelised flavour in your cake or ice cream is this:

“BUT IT’S NOT EVEN CHOCOLATE!” I here you scream. “AND IT’S MADE BY THE EVIL EMPIRE OF NESTLE!” and you’d be right on both counts, perhaps. Though the Caramac bar contains no cocoa solids it is still classed as chocolate (ridiculously) by some. David Lebovitz himself describes the flavour of his Caramelised White Chocolate (from now on to be called CWC for reasons of expediency… a symptom of this blog post) as:

Imagine the difference between the taste of sweetened condensed milk and dulce de leche, and that’s the difference between this and regular white chocolate.

I ask you is this not Caramac described before my eyes?

So to the crux of the issue. If you are in the trade you’ll know how difficult it can be to produce dishes cost effectively. With the rise and rise of minimum wage, staff costs and time are at a premium. I’ll wager that you could produce Caramac cake and put it next to a Caramalised white chocolate cake and once it’s dressed for service with all the artistry of professional cheffiness you’ll have a verisimilitudinous and more thrifty product. It would be just as tasty, equally naughty and evokative of so much childhood fun and pocket money misspent… but what would I know, I’m just a county boy from the Scottish Borders. If I start seeing Caramac based desserts popping up on menus across Southern Scotland, I’ll know I’ve made it as the Budget David Lebovitz… not that I’m conforming to national stereotypes.

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A Summer Garden Party: The Art of Cup Cupcakes

We’re off to visit a new client today. They’ve just finished renovating an old Mansion House at the foot of the Cheviot Hills down here in the Borders. The lady of the house wants to hold a Garden Party for the topping off celebration and she’s asked us to provide the nosh. I thought this would provide me with an opportunity to mention the amazing cupcakes of Lyndsey Neil:

I went to Art School with Lyndsey back in the day and not only is she a very talented baker and sugar crafter but she is also a superlative painter of Still Lives. She very much views her cakes as art works and no two are the same – unless you ask for them to be. I think these unique cupcakes are perfect for making an event memorable, the only problem is they look so good it feels like a sin to eat them. I served them at one party and had to encourage the guests to tuck in. As they were reluctant I bid them to imagine themselves as Shiva the destroyer of Worlds clearing way for new creation… it didn’t go down too well.

It’s going to be quite a pleasant day all in all. I have a liquor licence to chase up, menu’s to change, SEO to check on, Banners for our Border Union Show stall to buy and a myriad of other tasks that need to take place to keep this wee catering business going… I’m really looking forward getting to go for a run into the hills for this site visit later.

Ice cream, the McGyver way.

Ice Cream – New Young Pony Club

It seems appropriate that I add this track to the blog as the weather this past week has inspired more ice cream eating than the good folk at gelato stands in Italy itself could expect. I’m going to share with you a quick and easy way to make Ice cream if you don’t have an ice-cream maker. The recipe and method is an amalgem of the Raspberry Semifredo recipe which can be found in the Silver Spoon and my own ravenously inspired kitchen heath-robinson experiments.

You will need:

Ingredients –

6 egg yolks

250g caster sugar

500g frozen raspberries

100g fresh raspberries

750ml of double cream (with a little more just incase you want a creamier flavour)

half a vanilla pod or a very small dash of vanilla essence

Equipment –

1 food processor

4 Icepacks

1 tea towel

Method

About 15 minutes before you start take your frozen raspberries out of the freezer and allow them to defrost enough so that they can be easily poured through the top of the magimix. They need to remain cold/frozen as their temperature will aid the icing of the cream. you do not want them to totally defrost. YOU DO NOT WANT THEM TO TOTALLY DEFOST. If they have not all frozen together as a solid lump then you’ll be able to pour them in easily in the form of the tasty subzero nuggets we need.

Measure all your ingredients into containers that you and easily pick up and pour with one hand – trust me, this will really help.

Pour your cream, egg yolks and sugar into the magimix basin and give them a quick blitz (remembering to seal the lid… especially while tipsy and mid way through a dinner party). You will need to have the chopping blade attachment fitted and you’ll see why in a second. Now, here’s the McGyver part – you need to place the ice blocks around the outside of the bowl and use a tea towel to wrap around them and hold them in place. Once you have secured your ice blocks,  using one hand to hold the towel tight and the blocks in place (take a moment to picture this, it will demonstrate in your mind how in need of Homemade ice-cream you have to be), you will want to have  all your ingredients to hand for adding to the mix. Turn on the food processor again and begin pouring the frozen raspberries into the blender. The fruity ice cubes combined with the chilled exterior of the  bowel will allow the cream to become set. the blades meanwhile will be chopping your berries into tasty flavour morsels ensconced in the thickening cream. Add your vanilla and blend until you are happy with the consistency. The ice-cream will not be thick set like shop bought stuff but will have a velvety dense consistency that once fresh raspberries are folded into make the perfect accompaniment to Biscotti Brutti ma Boni or Hazel Nut cake or even Nutella Tart.

This process should not take longer than a few of minutes. If you have correctly set your ingredients out as I have recommended you should be more than capable of drinking and talking to your guests as you whip up a little blizzard of awesomeness in the kitchen.