I’ve dipped into the politics of chocolate before on this blog but I fear today I am going to utter something so heinous and contentious that I will be deemed a pariah. If you’ve been following David Lebovitz’ excellent blog you’ll know he’s been creating a bit of stir with his caramelised white chocolate recipe with one notable and delicious spin being featured recently, the Caramelised White Chocolate Cake as concocted by Laura Adrian of The Hidden Kitchen. Round about now chocolate purists and foodies are going to want to turn away… this recipe and all caramelised white chocolate recipes are unnecessarily complicated and valuable moments in life are being wasted – STOP THIS MADNESS! All you need to achieve that caramelised flavour in your cake or ice cream is this:
“BUT IT’S NOT EVEN CHOCOLATE!” I here you scream. “AND IT’S MADE BY THE EVIL EMPIRE OF NESTLE!” and you’d be right on both counts, perhaps. Though the Caramac bar contains no cocoa solids it is still classed as chocolate (ridiculously) by some. David Lebovitz himself describes the flavour of his Caramelised White Chocolate (from now on to be called CWC for reasons of expediency… a symptom of this blog post) as:
I ask you is this not Caramac described before my eyes?
So to the crux of the issue. If you are in the trade you’ll know how difficult it can be to produce dishes cost effectively. With the rise and rise of minimum wage, staff costs and time are at a premium. I’ll wager that you could produce Caramac cake and put it next to a Caramalised white chocolate cake and once it’s dressed for service with all the artistry of professional cheffiness you’ll have a verisimilitudinous and more thrifty product. It would be just as tasty, equally naughty and evokative of so much childhood fun and pocket money misspent… but what would I know, I’m just a county boy from the Scottish Borders. If I start seeing Caramac based desserts popping up on menus across Southern Scotland, I’ll know I’ve made it as the Budget David Lebovitz… not that I’m conforming to national stereotypes.